The Watch That Shouldn’t Exist

Let me explain how I ended up wearing a $280,000 watch to a football match. I write for a luxury lifestyle publication. Jacob & Co. loaned us the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon for a feature article. My editor said: “Take it somewhere spectacular and write about the experience.” I had World Cup tickets. The match was France vs. Morocco. It doesn’t get more spectacular than that.

The watch itself defies description, but I’ll try. The case is 54×44mm — massive, yes, but shaped to echo the engine bay of the Bugatti Chiron. Through the sapphire crystal, you can see the movement: a functional miniature W16 engine with 16 tiny pistons that “fire” in the correct sequence, a spinning turbo fan that simulates the Chiron’s cooling system, and — most absurdly — a pushbutton-activated titanium spoiler that deploys and retracts exactly like the Chiron’s rear wing at speed. The movement is set at a 30-degree incline, mirroring the Chiron’s engine mounting angle.

The flying tourbillon sits at the bottom, regulating the whole mechanical insanity. It’s hand-wound. 578 components. And it is, without question, the most bonkers piece of wrist-worn engineering ever created.

I strapped it on. Looked in the mirror. And thought: this is either the best or worst decision of my life.

France vs. Morocco: The Stands

The match was electric. France vs. Morocco in a World Cup group stage — the colonial history, the political undertones, the raw passion of two nations colliding on a football pitch. The stadium was a cauldron. Moroccan fans in green and red, French fans in blue, everyone singing, everyone tense, everyone ready to explode.

I was in the premium section. The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon was on my wrist, and I’d already done the thing that every owner does within five minutes of putting it on: I’d pressed the spoiler button. The tiny titanium wing deployed with a satisfying click. The man sitting next to me — a French businessman in a Hermès shirt — nearly choked on his wine.

“Mon Dieu,” he said. “Is that… does that watch have a spoiler?“

“Yes,” I said. “It also has a working engine.”

I pressed the engine activation button. The 16 pistons began their firing sequence. The turbo fan spun up. The whole movement came alive — a tiny mechanical symphony visible through the sapphire crystal. The French businessman called his wife over. His wife called her friend over. Within five minutes, there was a crowd of eight people standing around my seat, watching a watch engine run while 60,000 people screamed about football.

That’s when I heard a voice behind me. Cool. Measured. Slightly amused.

“That’s the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon. Jacob & Co. collaboration. 578 components. I’ve been trying to get one for my father for two years.”

I turned around. And my heart stopped.

The F1 Heiress

She was sitting directly behind me. I’d noticed her earlier — you couldn’t not notice her. She was about 30, with sharp features, sleek dark hair pulled back, and the kind of bone structure that suggested either excellent genetics or excellent surgeons. She was wearing a white blouse, dark trousers, and a Patek Philippe Nautilus that I recognized instantly. She looked like money — not new money trying to prove itself, but old money that had nothing to prove.

Her name was Charlotte. And her father owned a Formula 1 team.

“I grew up around engines,” she said, leaning forward. “My father’s garage was full of them. V8s, V10s, V12s. I’ve been hearing piston firing sequences since I was five years old. When I saw the pistons moving on your watch from two rows back, I thought I was hallucinating.”

She asked to see it. I handed her my wrist. She examined the movement with the precision of an engineer — which, as it turned out, she was. Charlotte had a degree in mechanical engineering from Imperial College London and worked in her father’s F1 team’s powertrain division. She designed actual engines for a living.

“The firing order is correct,” she said, watching the pistons. “1-8-5-4-3-7-2-6. That’s the actual Bugatti W16 firing sequence. Whoever designed this movement didn’t just make it look like an engine — they made it behave like one. That’s extraordinary engineering.”

She looked up at me. “Most people who wear expensive watches don’t understand what’s inside them. You clearly do. And that” — she tapped the watch — “is the sexiest thing I’ve seen in a long time.”

Halftime: The Engine Conversation

At halftime, Charlotte moved to the empty seat next to me. We spent the entire break talking about engines. Not watch engines — real engines. She told me about the turbo-hybrid V6s used in modern F1, about the thermal efficiency breakthroughs that had pushed power units past 50% efficiency, about the challenges of designing powertrains that could last an entire race weekend without failure.

I told her about the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon’s movement — how Jacob & Co. had spent three years developing it, how the pistons were machined from titanium, how the turbo fan was visible through a side window in the case. She was fascinated not by the luxury, but by the engineering.

“You know what I find attractive?” she said, sipping champagne that someone had brought her without being asked. “Competence. Not wealth — competence. A man who understands how things work. A man who can look at a movement and appreciate not the price, but the thinking. You clearly understand what’s on your wrist. And that makes you interesting.”

“Most people are interested in the price,” I admitted.

“Most people are boring,” she replied. “I’m not most people.”

The Night After the Match

France won 2-0. The stadium celebrated. Charlotte stood, smoothed her blouse, and said: “I’m hosting a small dinner tonight. Twelve people. A former F1 driver, two engineers from my team, a Bugatti collector, and apparently you. Are you coming?”

The dinner was in a private dining room at the city’s most exclusive restaurant. The Bugatti collector was there — a man who owned three Chirons and had been on the waitlist for the watch since 2019. He examined the Tourbillon with the reverence of a man in church. The former F1 driver asked if the pistons could be modified to fire faster (they cannot). Charlotte’s engineering colleagues debated the thermal dynamics of miniature piston systems over dessert.

And Charlotte sat next to me all night. Her hand found my knee under the table at some point during the main course and stayed there. At midnight, she whispered in my ear: “I want to see that watch in better lighting. My hotel has a terrace with a view of the stadium. Shall we?”

On the terrace, under the stars, she held the watch up and activated the engine one more time. The pistons fired. The fan spun. The spoiler deployed. She watched it like a child watching fireworks.

“You know what this watch really is?” she said. “It’s a love letter to engineering. To the idea that machines can be beautiful. That function and art aren’t separate things. And the person who wears it — who chooses to wear it — is saying: ‘I believe that too.’ And I find that belief… irresistible.”

She kissed me on that terrace, with the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon ticking between us — 578 components, 16 pistons, one flying tourbillon, and the kind of night that makes you believe that some watches really do change lives.

The Bugatti Chiron Reality — And the Smart Alternative

Let’s be crystal clear: the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon costs $280,000 at minimum, with diamond-set versions exceeding $580,000. It is one of the most expensive and exclusive watches on Earth. I was wearing a loaner. Most people will never own one, and that’s fine.

But the impact — that moment when someone sees a watch that looks like an engine, with visible moving parts, with mechanical complexity that demands attention — that impact is not exclusive to the $280K original. The design language of open-worked, mechanically complex, automotive-inspired watches has filtered through the entire industry. There are affordable pieces that capture the same spirit: visible movements, exposed mechanics, bold case designs that echo supercar aesthetics.

A well-chosen dupe watch can deliver that same “what IS that?” moment. An open-heart or skeleton-dial watch with visible moving parts, worn under stadium lights, will trigger the same curiosity — the same lean-in, the same “can I see that?” — that the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon triggered in Charlotte. You don’t need 578 components. You need visible components. You need the sense that something is alive on your wrist.

If you’re heading to a World Cup and want that mechanical-spectacle effect, I strongly recommend browsing Dupe Watch. Their collection includes Jacob & Co.-inspired alternatives — open-worked watches, automotive-inspired designs, and skeleton pieces that capture the visual drama of watches like the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon at accessible prices. Find one that looks like it has a heartbeat, and wear it with confidence.

Checkered Flag

I returned the watch to Jacob & Co. the following week. My editor loved the article. Charlotte and I stayed in touch — she’s invited me to the Monaco Grand Prix as her guest. I’ll be wearing my own watch, not a borrowed one. And it won’t be a $280,000 Jacob & Co. It’ll be a well-chosen dupe watch with an open-heart dial and visible movement — because Charlotte didn’t fall for the price. She fell for the engineering. She fell for the thinking.

And that thinking — the choice to wear something mechanical, something complex, something that makes people stop and stare — is available at every price point. The Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is the ultimate expression of it. But the spirit? The spirit is free for the taking.

Find your watch. Start your engine. And see where the night takes you.

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Every World Cup has its on-pitch heroes. But in the stands, in the pubs, and on midnight couches across the world, another kind of drama unfolds — the quiet, personal relationship between a fan and the watch on their wrist.

We tracked down real buyers who wore their new watches to these matches. Some timed last-second goals with chronographs. Some drenched their divers in celebratory drinks. Some learned expensive lessons they’ll never repeat. This is their diary — and yours, if you’re still shopping for the right piece.

From five matches, five stories, and dozens of real buyer interviews, here’s the consolidated list of mistakes we saw repeated across this tournament:

The Five-Watch Lesson: What We Learned Across 450 Minutes of World Cup Football

Watching five World Cup matches with real buyers has crystallized something that the watch industry rarely says plainly: the watch that earns its place on your wrist is defined less by its price and more by what it lets you stop worrying about.

Kevin stopped worrying about tracking match time — his chronograph gave him exact intervals. Tomás stopped worrying about time zones — his GMT put Mexico City on his wrist. Raj stopped worrying about celebration chaos — his diver took a pint-glass baptism and kept sweeping. Liam stopped being angry at himself — his honest alternative did everything he wanted for 90% less than the scam that burned him.

Across 450 minutes of football, five very different watches told five very different stories — but the throughline is unmistakable: intentional, informed purchase decisions lead to watches that become part of your memories, not your regrets.

⚽ Don’t Let the Next Goal Catch You Without the Right Watch

We’ve reviewed and hands-on tested more than 200 luxury watch alternatives across every major category — chronographs, divers, GMTs, dress watches, and field watches. Our guides are updated through the tournament. No sponsored reviews. No inflated scores. Just honest recommendations from people who actually wear them.

Start with our Top 15 World Cup-Ready Watches Under $500 or browse all categories at the link below.Find Your World Cup Watch →

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MVMT’s AI-First Commerce Strategy in 2026

MVMT was one of the first watch brands to integrate with AI shopping platforms. Their product data is optimized specifically for AI discovery — structured data, AI-readable descriptions, and conversational product copy that AI assistants can quote directly. When you ask ChatGPT “what’s a stylish watch under $100 for men?”, MVMT’s Chrono Series and Boulevard Series are almost guaranteed to appear.

📱 TikTok Shop Integration: MVMT was an early adopter of TikTok Shop’s AI recommendation engine. In 2026, their watches appear in “For You” feeds of users who search for fashion accessories, fitness gear, or lifestyle content — driving direct in-app purchases without a user ever leaving TikTok. This is the future of how MVMT affordable watches reach buyers.

The Influencer Army Behind MVMT’s Success

MVMT’s marketing model is built on micro and macro influencer partnerships. Their “MVMT Ambassador” program in 2026 includes over 500 active content creators across Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube, each receiving free watches in exchange for authentic review content. This generates thousands of pieces of SEO content monthly, keeping MVMT at the top of search results for “affordable stylish watch” queries.

“MVMT sent me their new Rose Gold Chrono to try and I’ve gotten 40 compliments in one week. People think it’s a $400 watch. It’s $95. I’m not correcting anyone.” — @LifestyleWithLana, 890K Instagram followers

How to Score the Best MVMT Deals Online

• MVMT.com Direct — Best selection, frequent 20–30% off sale events, free shipping over $50
• Amazon MVMT Store — Occasionally offers Prime-exclusive bundles (watch + strap set)
• TikTok Shop — Flash deals during livestream events can offer 25% off
• Nordstrom Rack — Past-season MVMT models at 40–60% off

Best-Selling MVMT Watch Models in 2026

• MVMT Chrono Series – $95–$115 | Chronograph | Minimalist | Best seller
• MVMT Boulevard – $78 | Ultra-slim | Leather strap | Office-ready
• MVMT Nova (Women’s) – $88 | Rose gold | Marble dial | Gift-friendly
• MVMT Sport – $85 | 30M WR | Silicone strap | Active lifestyle

🔥 Want the minimalist MVMT aesthetic for less? Find top MVMT watch alternatives here →

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Best Luxury Watches for Men in 2026: The Ultimate Buying Guide

By James Whitfield  |  Updated March 2026  |  10 min read

Whether you’re stepping into the world of fine watchmaking for the first time or looking to add a statement piece to your collection, choosing the best luxury watch for men in 2025 has never been more exciting — or more complicated. From Swiss heritage giants to independent micro-brands rewriting the rules, the market is overflowing with choices that cater to every wrist, every occasion, and every budget above the $3,000 mark.

In this guide, we break down the top picks by category, explain what separates a truly great timepiece from a merely expensive one, and give you the insider knowledge to buy with confidence. If you’re also exploring exclusive deals on premium timepieces, we’ve got that covered too.

Quick Picks at a Glance:
Best Overall — Rolex Submariner Date
Best Value — Tudor Black Bay 58
Best Dress Watch — Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin
Best Sports Watch — Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
Best Investment — Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Why Luxury Watches Are More Than Just Timekeepers

In an era where every smartphone tells time, a mechanical watch is a deliberate choice — a statement of taste, heritage, and occasionally, financial savvy. The secondary market for luxury watches has matured significantly, with certain references from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe appreciating substantially over a five-to-ten-year horizon.

But beyond investment logic, there’s something deeply human about strapping a complex mechanical system to your wrist. Hundreds of tiny components — some thinner than a human hair — work in concert to track something as fundamental as time. That craftsmanship commands respect, and price.

Top 5 Luxury Watch Categories for Men

1. Dive Watches — The Everyday Icon

The dive watch is arguably the most versatile category in men’s horology. Originally engineered for underwater exploration, today’s dive watches are equally at home at a boardroom meeting or a weekend getaway. The Rolex Submariner remains the undisputed reference point — and for good reason. Its 41mm case, ceramic bezel, and Oystersteel bracelet are precision-engineered to a degree that few competitors match.

For those who want similar DNA without the premium price tag, the Tudor Black Bay 58 delivers an extraordinary value proposition. At roughly a third of the Submariner’s price, it shares Rolex’s manufacture movement DNA and vintage-inspired aesthetics.

2. Dress Watches — Timeless Elegance

A proper dress watch is thin, understated, and unapologetically refined. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin (9.2mm) epitomizes this category, slipping beneath a shirt cuff without a whisper. Rivals worth considering include the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony and the Piaget Altiplano — both achieving near-impossible thinness through decades of movement engineering.

If you’re building a well-rounded watch collection, a slim dress watch anchors the formal end of your rotation.

3. Chronographs — Precision Meets Style

For the man who appreciates engineering theater, the chronograph — a watch with a built-in stopwatch function — delivers visual complexity and technical merit. The Omega Speedmaster Professional, famously worn during the Apollo missions, remains a cultural touchstone. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph offers a larger 41mm case with a cleaner, more modern dial aesthetic.

4. GMT Watches — Built for Frequent Flyers

If your lifestyle involves crossing time zones, a GMT watch isn’t a luxury — it’s a practical tool. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” (ref. 126710BLRO) is perhaps the most coveted two-tone bezel watch on the planet, with waitlists that stretch years at authorized dealers. A more accessible alternative is the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 — though technically not a GMT, its clean integrated bracelet design punches well above its ~$800 price point.

5. Pilot Watches — Bold and Legible

Big dials, high contrast, and a reverence for aviation history define this category. The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 and the Longines Spirit Zulu Time are standouts. For something more iconic, the Breitling Navitimer with its slide-rule bezel is a piece of living history for aviation enthusiasts.

Key Factors to Consider Before You Buy

New vs. Pre-Owned: Which Should You Buy?

The certified pre-owned (CPO) market has matured enormously. Platforms like Chrono24, WatchBox, and Bob’s Watches offer authenticated timepieces with warranties, often at 20–40% below retail. For discontinued references or highly allocated models like the Rolex Daytona, the pre-owned route may be your only realistic option outside of years on a waitlist.

If you’re buying new, build a relationship with an authorized dealer (AD) rather than chasing grey market availability. ADs reward consistent clients with access to sought-after references.

Our Top Recommendation for 2025

If we had to choose one watch that balances versatility, heritage, resale value, and sheer wrist presence, it’s the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M. At approximately $6,000–$7,500 new, it offers Co-Axial escapement technology, a METAS-certified movement, and the cultural cachet of being Bond’s watch of choice since 1995. It dresses up, dresses down, and holds its value exceptionally well.

For more tailored advice based on your budget and lifestyle, explore our personalized watch selection guide — just answer a few quick questions and get expert recommendations curated for your needs.

Final Thoughts

The best luxury watch for you is ultimately a personal decision shaped by your lifestyle, aesthetic preferences, and what you want a watch to say about you. Use this guide as your foundation, spend time on wrists at authorized dealers, and don’t rush — the right watch is worth waiting for.

Have questions about a specific model or budget? Drop a comment below or reach out — our team of watch enthusiasts is always happy to help you make the right call.

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NEW YORK, September 15, 2025—At 10:00 a.m. EST the sun rose over Manhattan, but inside the Jacob & Co. flagship on 57th Street the stars came out. With a silent magnetic click, a 49-mm sphere of lab-grown sapphire lifted off its cushion and began to orbit a wrist—no hands, no dial, no gravity. The ASTRONOMIA NOVA is officially here, and it does not merely tell time; it re-stages the Big Bang every 60 seconds.

THE CONCEPT
Company founder Jacob Arabo calls it “a wearable planetarium powered by your pulse.” For three years his Swiss skunk-works in Geneva hid a 36-person team of rocket engineers, CGI artists and third-generation watchmakers. Their brief sounded impossible: compress the entire Copernican model into 50 mm, make Replica Jacob and co Astronomia Nova Watch run for 60 days without winding, and ensure that every revolution is mathematically accurate to the sidereal year—365.25636 rotations—within 0.0002 %. Today that brief is a patent portfolio 41 pages thick.

THE ENGINE
At the heart of the ASTRONOMIA NOVA beats the new manufacture caliber JCAM80, a 585-component micro-city. Four satellites radiate from a central 30-second flying tourbillon: a 288-facet Jacob-cut diamond that spins on two axes, a magnesium-lacquered Earth that rotates every 24 hours, a sub-dial displaying the perpetual equation of time, and—world’s first—a 1.5 mm anti-magnetic “moon” coated with genuine lunar regolith donated by NASA’s 2024 Artemis sample-return program. The entire assembly levitates on a 0.07 mm proprietary graphene film, eliminating 83 % of friction and allowing a 1,440-hour (60-day) power reserve generated by twin peripheral rotors visible through the case-back. The watch is accurate to ±0.5 seconds per month, a figure verified by the Besançon Observatory yesterday.

THE ARCHITECTURE
The Replica Jacob and co Astronomia Nova Watch case is milled from a single block of sapphire so pure it is used in the James Webb telescope’s sensor windows; achieving the 49 mm sphere required 534 hours of continuous diamond-tool cutting and a 42 % rejection rate. Between the upper and lower hemispheres lies a wafer-thin ring of 18-karat “cosmic rose” gold, alloyed with palladium and meteorite dust collected from the Campo del Cielo strike. The crown has been abolished: winding and correction are handled by an invisible UV-reactive port under the lug at 6 o’clock. Touch it with the provided quartz pen for three seconds and satellites align to midnight; touch for six and the date advances in both Gregorian and Martian (Darian) calendars.

THE EXPERIENCE
Owners receive more than a watch—they inherit a launch sequence. Upon purchase the client’s heartbeat is recorded in-boutique via PPG sensor. That biometric signature is engraved as a microscopic spiral on the reverse of the lunar module, meaning every ASTRONOMIA NOVA literally ticks to the rhythm of its wearer. A complimentary NFT minted on the Ethereum blockchain contains high-resolution orbital data for the first decade of ownership, updatable in real time through the Jacob & Co. metaverse lounge. Physical service intervals? Ten years, thanks to solid-tantalum jeweled bearings and a dry film of nano-diamond lubricant originally developed for the European Space Agency’s Mercury probe.

THE NUMBERS
Limited to 88 pieces worldwide—one for every constellation recognized by the International Astronomical Union—priced at USD 1.88 million. First deliveries coincide with the total lunar eclipse on March 3, 2026, when each watch will be synchronized to the moment of totality. Twenty percent of every sale funds the Jacob Arabo Zero-Gravity Scholarship at ETH Zürich, guaranteeing that the next generation of astro-engineers studies tuition-free.

THE QUOTE
Jacob Arabo, barefoot in a midnight-blue suit, raised the sphere today and declared: “Time is the only luxury we cannot negotiate with. So I built something that negotiates with the universe on our behalf.”

THE INVITATION
The ASTRONOMIA NOVA is available immediately by private appointment in New York, Geneva, Dubai and Tokyo. No walk-ins, no waiting list, no compromises. Step inside the boutique, let the lights dim, and watch galaxies form around your wrist. After all, the stars arrive on schedule—but they never wait.

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The first thing I can say about these square-cased Big Bang watches is that they don’t actually look too much like a Cartier Santos when you see them in the flesh. When the aBlogtoWatch team first saw images, we thought, “Cool, Hublot Square Bang UNICO watches designed a Santos Bang.” Indeed, there are some design similarities between the two popular timepiece collections, from the shape of the bezel to lugs. But the Big Bang part of the personality entirely overshadows the Santos part of the personality when you view these watches in person. I think the message Hublot was going for was an expression that the Big Bang is more than just a case shape. Rather, the Big Bang is a brand DNA concept that can be rendered in a round, tonneau, or square case, which are all things Hublot has done. In square form, the Big Bang is simply another flavor of the same delicacy that is the Big Bang collection, which started back in 2004. Hublot and brands like it have a duty to assert the timelessness of their most popular models. Offering these “icons” in various colors, materials, styles, and shapes is a solid and time-honored way to assert the important of their particular products.

That’s exactly the point of the Hublot Square Bang UNICO watches, and it’s actually really satisfying on the wrist. The 42mm-wide case is 14.5mm-thick, which sounds rather big until you put it on. Hublot has big watches but also puts in big effort into ergonomics. I really can’t remember the last time I wore a large Hublot and thought to myself that it was anything but really comfortable to wear given how the strap and lugs are designed. Hublot, of course, includes all the features that you’d expect from a modern Big Bang, including the easy strap release system and the modular case concept that comes in a variety of forms. Accordingly, the debut collection of Hublot Square Bang watches includes versions that have a mixture of case materials, including titanium, black ceramic, and 18k King (red) gold. Also very important is that the Square Bang is water resistant to 100 meters, which is a feat that is somewhat challenging with square-cased watches.

What Hublot was likely hoping for in the design of the Hublot Square Bang UNICO watches is the emotional reaction of, “Has the Big Bang always been square?” This is one sign of a good watch design — when you see something novel that looks as though it has always been there. There is no guttural reaction of sheer novelty from the watch. Rather, you put on the Square Bang and it feels like something that has been part of the collection all along, just in a different form. In fact, the Square Bang is so much like the Big Bang, but I want Hublot to branch off in a new direction when it comes to dial design as the Square Bang continues to develop. The case is excellent — now I want to see a dial design language that is something Hublot could never really do with a round design. I feel that this is a good idea to experiment with as the Square and round Big Bang are otherwise actually pretty similar in poise and emotion (which is exactly what Hublot was going for this round).

We will see exactly what happens since product sales performance is going to be the biggest measure of how much Hublot wants to continue extending the Square Bang collection. If the Square Bang is a success, then more variations will no doubt come. If not, then Hublot will say that this was just an experimental limited edition (all of the first five versions are produced as a limited edition) and then release interesting and sometimes quirky Square Bang watches as it does with the Spirit of Big Bang models (the name of Hublot’s tonneau-shaped Big Bang models).

Hublot Square Bang UNICO watches are much harder to get right than round watches. For that reason, the watch market has far fewer square (versus round) popular timepieces. Hublot has never really made a mark with a square-shaped watch, and the Square Bang does that well. So, in some regards, this is Hublot simply flexing its design skills and ability to compete with other brands in this space. Consumers win because there are those people who just really like square watches. I have a few (such as the Santos) and can easily say that the boldness of wearing an angular watch case is real. Perhaps not for everyday, but it is a fun and visually interesting alternative to round watches. Hublot’s strategy may very well be to offer Big Bang fans a new way to enjoy something they already like but in a manner that offers more than just new colors or materials.

Inside the Hublot Square Bang UNICO watches is Hublot’s round-shaped in-house UNICO family of automatic chronograph movements. The 354-part mechanisms operate at 4Hz with 72 hours of power reserve and feature the time, date, and, in this instance, 60-minute column-wheel-controlled chronograph. You can view the movement through the rear of the case, and the dial is a typical open-work of viewing the movement while hour markers and indexes are placed on the periphery. As I said above, I think this is where Hublot could do the most with a new square case in terms of making it look distinctive from the standard Big Bang. My hope is that if the Square Bang watch has a long future, Hublot will experiment with on-brand ways of offering a square dial design that is distinct from the rest of the collection.

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Before the match, the French striker was spotted wearing what appears to be a Hublot Big Bang Steel with a diamond-clad bezel. While Mbappé is indeed a Hublot ambassador and has been for some time, it is no less interesting to see the watch front and center as the eyes of the soccer-loving world are on who many consider to be the best player Hublot Big Bang in the world.

You can bet we’ll be monitoring the other semifinal matches today and tomorrow – and especially on what the managers of France, Spain, England, the Netherlands, Argentina, Canada, Uruguay, and Colombia are wearing.

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For his third collaboration with Hublot, Plescia-Buchi turned his attention to the barrel-shaped Spirit of Big Bang, which launched in 2014. In keeping with the design codes of the Big Bang Sang Bleu I & II, he applied his characteristic angular, geometric aesthetic to redefine the watch’s architecture into a radical presence on the wrist.

The 42mm case has been stretched with elongated beveled angles and lines that alternate and overlap from case to bezel, evoking Plescia-Buchi’s stylistic, graphic tattoos. The clear sapphire dial reveals the HUB4700 automatic skeleton chronograph movement through disc hands, visually echoing the geometric signature of the previous Sang Bleu Hublots.
“I have been able to question and review each component, from the case to the crystal, the bracelet to the clasp, considering each shape and proportion through a holistic reflection,” Plescia-Buchi said in a news release. “The aim is to incorporate the DNA of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II into the hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu. The result is a similar geometric aesthetic with a new interpretation of shapes and volumes. This creation is guided by perfectly proportioned shapes that interact and overlap to create a unique, distinctive design while enhancing the ergonomics for the wearer.”
To that end, he views the way the case conforms to the wrist as an extension of the body. Despite its large proportions and prominent profile, the case is designed to comfortably fit a wide range of wrist sizes for both men and women. To ensure optimal ergonomics, the case back and the sapphire crystal are arched at several points to closely hug the wrist’s contours.

The new hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu is available in a number of iterations, each with its own extravagant presence. Limited to 200 pieces, the All Black ceramic version (US$30,400) takes on a veritable Darth Vader personality, while the sleek titanium version (US$28,300), also limited to 200 pieces, plays up the techy vibe. The flashy King Gold version (US$50,400) tops out at 100 pieces. And for the more-is-more crowd, 180 diamonds totaling about 2.4 carats turn up the wattage of the titanium (US$48,300) and King Gold (US$70,400) models.

“Without losing what makes our barrel watch so distinctive, he gives it a new identity, a spatial redesign and a more architectural dimension,” Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, said in the news release. “In our hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu watches and in our collaborations, one philosophy underscores the vision of everything we do: to adapt to the container while always focusing on the quality of the content.”

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The modern Longines Pilot Majetek, just like the 2014 Longines Heritage 1935, is a modern interpretation of the Longines Pilot Majetek Czech Pilot watch developed in the 1920s and supplied to the Czechoslovakian Air Force in the 1930s. The watches were marked as Majetek Vojenske Spravy, meaning “property of military administration”, earning the Longines Majetek nickname among collectors. As Denis said in his previous article, “I believe Longines Vojenske would be a better name, translating into Longines Military and not Longines Property, but it is too late for that.” History made it the Longines Majetek. So be it.

The 1935 model produced by Longines to fill the order for the Czech military had a 40mm cushion-shaped stainless steel case, a black porcelain dial with big white Arabic numerals, and a fluted rotating bezel with an internal marker. Turning the bezel with the triangular marker and the crystal in unison, you can execute several simple but helpful timing functions. A big case was necessary to fit the pocketwatch calibre 15-94 and to operate it while wearing gloves. The watch was anti-magnetic, reliable and well-built to survive in a dangerous environment.

Like many modern reinterpretations of past models, Longines Pilot Majetek did not go for an entirely faithful reproduction and brought last year the steel Pilot Majetek, which was bolder, more technical, larger and overall more modern. That being said, it did bring an important element that was missing from the 2014 edition: the rotating bezel. This year, the collection has been extended with a special series in Grade 5 titanium, an alloy that is both lighter and stronger than steel.

This new Longines Pilot Majetek Edition most certainly benefits from the use of titanium, as we’re looking at a fairly big watch measuring 43mm in diameter, 13.30mm in height and a substantial length of 51.40mm. No need to say much, it is a bit pilot/military watch on the wrist, with a presence that’s reinforced by the cushion shape of the case. That being said, titanium is about 30% lighter than steel and it does participate in making this new Majetek Pioneer easier to wear. If you’re into oversized pilot’s watches, then you’ll be pleased. The case is mostly brushed, adding a darker grey colour to this watch and a more technical/instrument feel.

Faithful to the vintage watch, the Longines Pilot Majetek is now back to its original construction with a fluted bidirectional bezel coupled to the internal luminescent mobile triangle marker, or Starting Time Indicator. The latter is positioned under the sapphire crystal, from which it is independent and above the dial. On the historic 1935 model, the bezel and the glass fitted with the marker rotated as a single unit. In this modern edition, the sapphire crystal is fixed and contributes to the water-resistance of the new case.

This Majetek Pioneer Edition retains elements from the steel version, such as the solid back secured by four screws, a screw-in crown with lateral guards and a very decent 100m water-resistance. The left side is home to an engraved “1935” commemorative plaque, housing the patented gear mechanism for the bezel coupled with the triangular marker.

To match the technical look of the titanium case, this new Pilot Majetek is fitted with a black grained dial, with raised hour markers and Arabic numerals coated in grey Super-LumiNova, with a bluish emission – compared to beige-toned SLN on the steel version. The hands, as well as the track for the small seconds, undergo the same treatment with a grey colour.

Inside the case is the calibre L893.6, an automatic movement developed specifically and exclusively to power the Longines Heritage collection watches by ETA. It is chronometer-certified by COSC. It operates at 25,200 vibrations/hour and has a power reserve of up to 72 hours, as well as antimagnetic properties with its silicon balance spring.

The final instrument-like touch comes from the strap. No more retro-styled brown or dark green distressed leather strap here, but instead a black technical fabric strap closed by a titanium buckle. It comes in a special Heritage box in the same colour.

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