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Attired in a fully curved, tripartite tonneau-shaped case made of Carbon TPT and grade 5 titanium, the Richard Mille RM 66 Flying Tourbillon features an incredibly complex build that underwent an arduous manufacturing process with high level of quality control. It stars a golden skeletal hand gesturing “the devil’s horns” as the centerpiece, which is set in place over the manual winding tourbillon calibre.

Positioned at the 12 o’clock mark is a skull seal that pays homage to Richard Mille’s iconic RM 052 model, which is also the brand’s first watch to “stir up rebellion and the advent of non-conformity in haute horlogerie.” The skull motif is echoed on the spidery and claw-like torque-limiting crown, accompanied by polished red gold pyramid studs. In addition, the watch incorporates unusual-looking hour markers that are screwed onto the upper flange, which comes in a shape that emulates guitar picks to add to its rock’n’roll aesthetics.
Richard Mille knows how to get conversations started on the world-wide-watch-web. Whether you love the brand or hate it, you’re bound to feel something when confronted with a picture of a new RM release on your Instagram feed. Which kind of means they’re doing something right.

This latest model is anything but short of divisive. At first glance, the Richard Mille RM 66 Flying Tourbillon  “Horn To Be Wild” looks like a watch made for two sides of extreme. Exhibit A : aging rockstar who wears deep v-neck t-shirts, skinny jeans and prayer beads, this rockstar once lived to beat the system, and now resides in a 20 million pound home in Kensington. Exhibit B:  L.A. hypebeast decked out in Amiri with zero taste barometer and a rose gold Brabus G Wagon (car reference courtesy of Highsnobiety automotive editor Jonathan Schley).

Now for the actual watch and its contents . The rose gold openwork hand, which sits as the proud centerpiece of the RM66 is instantly recognizable. Its  representation of the “sign of the horns”  symbol was popularized by Ronnie James Dio of Black Sabbath fame. The link isn’t hard to make: think Ozzy Osborne biting off bat heads, think Gene Simmons and his “The Demon” stage persona (or the Family Guy parody thereof), think Hells Angels and faded “I heart mom” tattoos.
The “sign of the horns” is ultra emblematic to a modern audience, but this type of skeletal imagery has always been imbued with meaning. Visual artists have employed the same code for hundreds of years, typically as a Memento Mori – a symbolic reminder of the inevitability of death. Found across various mediums, these ancient skulls weren’t intended to scare. Peversley, they were a jovial reminder of the imminent pleasures of the afterlife as famously depicted in the Danse Macabre. This watch uses much of the same code. The RM66 isn’t morbid, it’s life affirming, it’s rock and roll.

The message carries through onto the design of the rest of the watch. No surface or detail is spared of the punk rocker aesthetic.  The Carbon TPT bezel and caseback almost resembles a Glam Rock style monochrome animal print, the caseband features 5N red gold plates with a clou de Paris pattern (aka a studded belt pattern, the ultimate punk rock signifier and early 2000s Kelly Osborne / Avril Lavine accessory) and the gothic-inspired spider-like crown displays a small skull engraving and encases a synthetic ruby. The crown resembles the top of a scepter, a symbol of gothic culture; it embodies something I like to call The Great Frog aesthetic: a crossover of gothic, punk and leather.
But let’s set these audacious looks aside for a second, because there’s a whole lot of fine watchmaking happening inside of this black carbon TPT tonneau shaped case.

The openwork Richard Mille RM 66 Flying Tourbillon features a manual winding caliber which showcases a fast-winding barrel positioned at six o’clock and the tourbillon at 12 o’clock. The grade 5 titanium movement, whose lines follow those of the hand, is highly skeletonized. This is possible thanks to a flying tourbillon with a cage that is fixed at only one end of its axis, eliminating the upper bridge.

The tripartite case is assembled using 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and is fitted with 2 Nitril O-ring seals to 50 meters of water resistance.

Of course it’s all in the material at Richard Mille: The Carbon TPT used is composed of multiple layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fibers. These layers are then woven on a special machine and heated to 120°C. Using Carbon TPT basically  means there’s far less chance of you scratching, cracking  or making nicks in your watch. The damascene effect (I’m still calling it animal print) differs from one watch to the next, making each watch unique.
Back to the decorative elements of this openwork splendor. There is a small skull engraving set atop the tourbillon, which echoes the skulls we’ve seen in previous RM designs. The indices could be mistaken for joint sockets, or tiny baby teeth. Turns out they are meant to be guitar plectrums.

The engraved hand is attached to the barrel bridge, with the index and little fingers outstretched and visible from the front, whilst the thumb holding the middle and ring fingers are visible from the back of the watch. Whether this is very much your cup of tea or your worst possible nightmare, the engraving work executed here deserves all the praise and more. As somebody who has collected and inherited charms since their early teenage years, the level of detail on this x-ray hand has me wondering if RM only hires engravers with doll-sized hands. The finishing is indeed manual, with the contours of the bones and delicate joints created by deburring and polishing.
Yes, ossuary artifacts are inherently morbid, but the point here is to turn that natural instinct on its head. Something that should be weird, scary and gross is instead associated with free spirit and rebellion which echoes the RM anti-conformist spirit perfectly.
Richard Mille just gave us permission to stick up our horns and embrace our inner rebel, something I enjoy doing in this sometimes very stuffy watch space.

OK, so the watch has a million-dollar price tag, but this watch isn’t for us mere mortals. It’s for the actual aging rock stars collecting their royalties from a castle in France. I don’t see the problem with enjoying Richard Mille from afar. Are we not allowed to enjoy something without owning it? This is an objet d’art!

Divisive as the brand’s products may be, their cultural relevance is so significant that the Tonneau-shaped RMs are not just relegated to the musings of hardcore watch enthusiasts, Richard Mille is part of the mainstream cultural discourse. Yes, it helps when Pharrell and Rafael Nadal are your brand ambassadors, it also helps when the price tag can sometimes be north of a million dollars. But I love RM for pushing the boundaries and essentially reframing the definition of a luxury watch: Luxury is no longer just about owning a giant gold or platinum brick timepiece.
The RM66 is an accessory with a whole lot of personality, done in the most Richard Mille way. The high grade materials, the progressive mechanical function, the top-notch decorative elements. The various themes and motifs used by the brand can often be tongue-in-cheek but they are always done to material and mechanical perfection. This type of watch world rebellion is what keeps me interested in the brand. Serious haute horlogerie but always fun, always with a  f**k you approach.

Wearing a Richard Mille is like the rich man’s equivalent of dying your hair blue. It’s punk with a price tag. Is this going in my personal Richard Mille hall of fame? Probably not. I’m an RM88 Smiley, RM07-03 Bon Bon kinda gal. This watch would have even scared the 14-year-old version of me who listened to slipknot and wore safety pins in her jeans.

Does this look like an archeological excavation gone wrong, does this watch belong to James Goldstein? Richard Mille doesn’t care. They are sticking it to the purists.

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The time-teller is decorated with myriad happy micro-sculptures crafted by Olivier Kuhn, including a blossoming flower, warm sunrays, a delectable-looking pineapple, a thriving cactus, a pink flamingo and a bright rainbow. Inside the watch’s white ATX ceramic case, each gold miniature is strategically placed around the central Smiley motif and applicquéd atop an auxiliary baseplate. Notably, the striking Smiley motif, which is micro-blasted and painted yellow gold, is situated above the detailed landscape from atop the motion-work bridge, which features polished anglage and drawn edges.

On the mechanical side, the watch is equipped with the new CRMT7 calibre, a skeletonized automatic tourbillon movement with hour, minute and function displays. The design’s bridges, made of grade 5 titanium, are coated with a complex double PBD coating in black and gold, a finish that also appears on the back of the baseplate. Outside, the crown bears the signature Smiley icon and the caseband appears in red gold.

The RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley is limited to only 50 units. Take a look at the imaginative timepiece in the gallery above, and learn more on Richard Mille’s website.
Richard Mille RM 88 Tourbillon Smiley. Only $1.2 Million USD. The new Richard Mille RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley, with its three-dimensional aesthetics and splendid colors, takes on the vivid quality of a waking dream. A playfully colorful, poetic, and lively creation limited to 50 watches.
The playful timepiece is limited to only 50 units. Richard Mille has unveiled its latest technical, creative and forward-minded timepiece: the RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley. The watch, which took three years to develop, celebrates the iconographic Smiley illustration, drawn by Franklin Loufrani over 50 years ago.
In keeping with watchmaking tradition, all finishing operations on the RM 88 Smiley are carried out by hand. In a manner similar to that of a car’s gearbox, the function indicator allows one to see the winding and hand-setting positions as the crown is pulled out. The active position is indicated via a hand at 3 o’clock.

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Unlike Bulgari (and past record-holder Piaget), RM has assembled the entire movement, itself just 1.18mm thick, into the case – instead of the caseback doubling as a baseplate which is the usual procedure. The ultra-flat Calibre RM UP-01 Ferrari features hours, minutes, seconds, and a function selector all spread across the broad, impossibly thin, case design. The movement plate used for this watch is skeletonized and underwent a litany of strength tests which allow it to withstand accelerations of over 5,000 Gs.

The movement was developed between RM and Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi. Part of this development involved rethinking the escapement by building a titanium variable inertia balance wheel, which allowed for a reduction in thickness without losing any of the function and capability. Where a traditional escapement contains a guard pin and safety roller to protect the lever from shock, according to RM, “The new patented ultra-flat escapement eliminates both parts and situates the banking function directly to the anchor fork. To do so, the fork itself was elongated and its horns modified.”

The case shape is something of a rounded rectangle with the time indication located at the center of the top half. Everything surrounding the main time display is effectively the bezel. Located on and integrated into this vast bezel is the function selector – a crown that allows the user to select between winding or setting. The actual setting or winding is completed via the crown, just beneath the function sector. Surrounding both crowns are two black ceramic inserts that protect the bezel from friction and aid in water resistance (the watch is rated to 10m).

Both the dial for the time and the dial for the balance are covered with a sapphire crystal complete with anti-reflective coating on both sides. The rest of the case design is industrial-meets-racing with a large segment relegated to the Ferrari logo inside of a divot.

Who doesn’t love a world record? I think it’s positively insane that we are seeing this watch so soon after the announcement of the Bulgari Ultra. You have to think that RM had this in the prototyping phase by the time that watch was announced. It’s really amazing to see, despite so much ubiquity in the watch world today, that brands are continuing to push the limits of what watchmaking can be.

Now, that enthusiasm comes with a caveat. None of these record-thin watches are meant for the mass-market consumer. In the case of Richard Mille, we are talking about the brand that makes tourbillons with tennis-string dials for Rafael Nadal that cost a cool million. It’s in these moments – when records get broken – that RM UP-01 Ferrari watch enthusiasts find the line between collecting and sheer appreciation. The price tag on this limited run of record-breaking thinness takes this out of the realm of attainability for basically everyone (unless you happen to live the kind of lifestyle where you might find $2 million dollars under a couch cushion). But that doesn’t make this any less cool.

The differentiating factor between this new watch and the other contenders at Bulgari and Piaget, is the case. Both of those brands used the case as the baseplate, whereas RM (along with APRP) were able to build the entire movement, mainplate and all, inside a closed case. That, to me, is remarkable. I mean, RM watches are known for their crazy lightness and capability (most RM brand ambassadors wear the watches while they play their respective sports) but this is just ridiculous. Aside from the lightness of the titanium, the fact that the brand has gone the extra steps to ensure both water- and shock-resistance is a marvel.

Sure, this is at least as much an exercise in engineering as watchmaking, but boy if it isn’t a cool one.

Say what you will about RM – a brand that typically makes watches upwards of $500k – but you have to appreciate it for leaning hard into this one. With the Calibre RMUP-01 it has shown a real commitment to subverting traditional movement design in order to effectuate optimal thinness. One thing is for sure, I can’t wait to see this one in the metal.

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