The case, the bezel, and the bracelet are decorated with diamonds in so-called snow setting. Several rows of diamonds sparkle on the dial, tracing the wave-like pattern that is typically found on Nautilus ladies’ models. It is a noteworthy example of Patek’s breadth in style that combines creativity, and delicate gem-setting in a bold yet elegant way on the Patek Philippe Nautilus 7118 platform. Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie sparkles with 2553 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (~12.69 ct). Patek chose the extremely elaborate technique of snow setting, also referred to as random pavé setting. The gem setter places diamonds of different sizes side by side in a random fashion, making sure that as little of the gold matrix is visible between the individual diamonds. Hence, each watch with a snow setting has a unique dial. The dial features luminous Alpha hour and minute hands in blackened white gold, and the applied Arabic numerals made of the same precious metal also have a luminous coating for a perfect legibility, even on an haute joaillerie watch where the emphasis generally tends to be on the stones. The white gold case is powered by Patek’s caliber 324 S automatic movement, the same movement that powers Ref. 5711. The finely finished movement with gold rotor is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The 18K white-gold bracelet is paved with diamonds (~9.22 ct) and features a patented fold over clasp set with diamonds.

The steel Patek Philippe Nautilus 7118 is one of the most iconic sports watches, the most Instagrammed object, and hardest to purchase at the retail price. The “Snowhite” Ref. 7118/1450G-001 in white gold takes it several notches above the steel sports watch with over 12.6 carats of diamonds on the dial, case, and the bracelet. Patek Philippe combines high watchmaking artistry with delicate and rare handcrafts, in this case with gem setting. While Nautilus steel is an understated and refined sports watch, Ref. Patek Philippe Nautilus 7118 transforms the Nautilus from an everyday timepiece to a rare jewelry object. I appreciate that Patek has not added any limitation to this reference, and it is now part of the brand’s standard collection. Although, due to the skills and resources required, it will likely be manufactured in a very limited fashion.

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The self-winding caliber R AL 27 PS takes the alarm function and integrates it into the caliber R 27. Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Philippe Stern engineers had to rethink the minute repeater mechanism to combine the two. Both the alarm and the minute repeater chime on the same two gongs. Once activated via the slide piece on the left flank of the case, the movement can either instantly strike the time on the dial in minute repeater mode or put the stake on hold until the time displayed corresponds to the scheduled alarm time. The two modes are indicated via the bell-shaped aperture beneath the Patek Philippe signature. When in minute repeater mode, the bell is black; in alarm mode the bell is red. A push-piece in the crown allows the user to choose between the two. When in alarm mode, the slide must be actuated again to wind the alarm, changing the bell from red to white. When in alarm mode is white, it means that the alarm has been set but has not yet sounded. While the bell is set to white it’s possible to return to minute repeater mode by pressing the push-piece without the striking mechanism being activated. Like a traditional minute repeater, the piece will sound the hours, quarters, and minutes on demand, but the 12-hour alarm, which is set from one quarter-hour to the next via the crown pulled out in its middle position, strikes two minutes before its set time in order to allow the maximum number of chimes (thereby providing more of a melody). For instance, if the alarm is set at 3 o’clock it would actually go off at 2:58, so the user would hear two low-pitch strikes for the hour, three double high-low strikes for the quarters, and 13 high-pitch strikes for the remaining minutes.

All in all 227 parts had to be added to the movement to accomplish its technical feats. Plus, four new patents were filed for a unidirectional coupling mobile system, a timepiece incorporating a minute repeater and alarm with reversible selection, a timepiece with a repeater and constant-travel slide piece, and a striking mechanism equipped with a delaying device.

The piece is limited to just 30 pieces worldwide. While Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Philippe Stern collectors may not be sold on wearing Philippe Stern’s face, Patek Philippe enthusiasts may want to get their hands on a piece for the art of its mechanics and, of course, to have the bragging rights of owning the most elevated complication from one of the most coveted (and hard to get) watch brands on the planet.

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First up is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R to the collection. Here, the rose gold case measures 42.2mm by 11.9mm, and a composite brown strap matches the brown dial. The 5968R takes the familiar form of the Aquanaut chronograph and renders it in rose gold.
That means the 42mm case has 120 meters of water resistance, and the brown dial has a sunburst effect that ends in a black rim towards the dial’s edge. Through the sapphire caseback, you can see Patek’s self-winding flyback chronograph CH 28-520 C. It powers the central chronograph hand and the Aquanaut’s signature 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock. It’s a column wheel movement with a vertical disk clutch. MSRP is CHF 64,000.

Just a couple of millimeters smaller, Patek has added the new Aquanaut Luce reference 5261R. It’s an annual calendar – a complete day, date, and month calendar that needs just one manual correction (at the end of February).
The rose gold case measure 39.9mm by 10.9mm in thickness, and it’ll come on the well-known Aquanaut composite strap in a blue-grey that matches the dial. Of note, Patek’s introducing a new movement in the 5261R, the 26-330 S QA LU. It’s based on the 26-330 S C Patek introduced in 2019 (and used in the last generation of the 5711 and this year’s 6007G release, among others). MSRP on the new Aquanaut Luce will be CHF 52,000.

Alongside the 5261R, Patek has added the Patek Philippe 5268/200R to its Aquanaut lineup – a 38.8mm Aquanaut with 38 diamonds on the bezel. This one’ll set you back CHF 45,500. That means the 42mm case has 120 meters of water resistance, and the brown dial has a sunburst effect that ends in a black rim towards the dial’s edge.

Through the sapphire caseback, you can see Patek’s self-winding flyback chronograph CH 28-520 C. It powers the central chronograph hand and the Aquanaut’s signature 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock. It’s a column wheel movement with a vertical disk clutch. MSRP is CHF 64,000.
Since Patek launched the Aquanaut Flyback Chronograph in steel in 2018 (as the 5968A), we could’ve assumed it’d make it’s way into rose gold, and probably in something that looked kind of like the 5968R we see her now. It’s got the brown dial we’ve seen in other rose gold Pateks (hello there, 5167R), and the matching brown strap is a delightful chocolate bar. It joins the steel 5968A and a pair of white gold 5968G models as Patek continues to fill out its collection of Aquanaut chronographs.

While we might’ve known something like the 5968R was coming eventually, I’m not sure many people expected the Aquanaut Luce, and I think that makes it even better. It’s in a 40mm Aquanaut case, which Patek refers to as its ladies’ line. The last few years, Patek’s added the Travel Time 5269R and the “Rainbow” chronograph 5968R, and now Patek’s adding a sportier, non-gemset watch to its lineup of smaller Aquanauts. And I might just love it.

Patek only introduced the annual calendar in the 1990s as a practical (and cheaper) alternative to more complex calendars, so it’s a natural fit for a smaller Aquanaut. Instead of the brown seen in the chronograph, the dial is a soft blue-grey that’s a monotone across the entire dial. There’s a composite strap to match. Patek’s put the moonphase under 12 o’clock, and the month and day sit at 9 and 3 o’clock, respectively

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The other 6300, which features multiple emerald-set tracks around the bezel, is anything but understated. The numbers here are jaw-dropping: 118 baguette-cut emeralds and 291 baguette-cut diamonds. There are 28.41 total carats on this watch. This is the type of treasure they base an entire Oceans movie on.  The headliner might be these very high-end Grandmaster Chimes, but the rest of the Patek collection is notable, too, for being so sporty. Last year, Patek seemed to pointedly remove itself from the sport watch conversation, saying RIP to the beloved 5711 Nautilus and skipping new models from that line and the Aquanaut, Patek’s other sport collection. Patek is making another 180 this year, expanding the Aquanaut line, the even more casual and athletic little brother to the Nautilus, with three new grown-up additions. The first is simple, with a brown-dial version and a chronograph. Things escalate quickly from there. Patek used rose-gold for all three of the new Aquanauts, which goes particularly well with the navy-dial model bolstered with an annual calendar and moonphase. The last of the trio is – why the hell not? – set with 48 diamonds on the bezel.  Our favourite of the new Pateks, though, are the three colourful Calatravas. Patek debuted this reference in 2020 to celebrate the opening of a new manufacturer and is now expanding the range with more casual watches. I always appreciate when the always-elegant Patek gets a little loose – it’s like seeing James Bond change out of his tux and into his Barbour jacket. Each new Calatrava comes with a different accent colour: red, sky blue, and yellow. The red and yellow, in particular, have a delightful racing bite to them.

With this collection, Patek was apparently hellbent on proving it can do sport watches as well as anyone. It quickly pivots from the world of racing to pilot watches. The reference 5924 takes Patek’s Pilot-style watch, with those chunky can’t-miss numerals, and adds a chronograph for the first time. The watch comes in standard navy but I really love the khaki-green model. And if you’re more comfortable in the plane’s cabin than the cockpit, Patek also has a new GMT. The brand’s spin on the travel-time complication features the 24-hour markers set straight onto the dial.  Patek Philippe’s full-throated re-commitment to sports permeates the entire collection. This year, even the fancy watches are imbued with a certain je ne sais sport. Patek’s two collections are divided into two categories, one of which is home to only the ritziest of pieces and described as the “Rare Handcraft” selection. Here is a version of the Calatrava with a miniature painting done entirely by hand. This rare, painstakingly done art features a red racecar inspired by the 1948 Nations Grand Prix.

To start, the new Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300GR-001 is a mixed-metal version of the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, launched in 2014 as a limited edition before joining the current collection in 2016.

The Grandmaster Chime is Patek’s most complicated timepiece with 20 complications including five chiming modes, an alarm that strikes a pre-selected time, and a date repeater that strikes the date on demand.

The Ref. 6300GR-001 is rendered in white and rose gold. It has two brown opaline dials and a hand-guillochéd “Clou de Paris,” or hobnob pattern, on the side showing the time of day. The rich chestnut brown alligator strap is closed with a white and rose gold mixed metal buckle.

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The new Patek Philippe Calatrava 5224R keeps home and local time with two central hands that track a 24-hour dial. Patek has produced 24-hour dials like this in past – notably for Gondolo pocket watches, one of which now sits in the Patek Philippe Museum – so it’s a nice historical nod to revive the 24-hour indication in a modern reference. You’ll also notice that noon is placed at 12 o’clock, not 6 o’clock as would usually be the case. Patek says this is to ensure visibility during the daytime hours.

The rose gold case measures 42mm, and the curved, double-stepped lugs look to give the watch a thin profile, especially on the wrist (the photo below is the 5224R on James’ wrist). Since the dial is large, its contrasting finishes – circular striated center, circular, satin-finished hour track, and a snailed small seconds – give the design balance.

Making the 24-hour display possible is the new caliber 21-260 PS FUS, a micro-rotor movement with 48 hours of power reserve. Instead of using pushers to adjust the dual-time zone display, as is common in other Patek travel times, the new ref. 5224R features a new, patented three-position crown. The middle position allows setting of the local time in either direction in one-hour steps, while the outermost position allows simultaneous setting of home time and local time. All is visible through a sapphire caseback. It comes on a blue nubuck strap, which dresses down the Calatrava just a touch. It’ll cost CHF 48,500; for reference, the Aquanaut Travel Time costs CHF 53,000 in rose gold.  Nowadays, few brands are doing a travel watch like Patek Philippe, and this iteration balances dressy and sporty. The large 24-hour display feels like a throwback not only to that Patek pocket watch, but also to the oversized aviator’s watches from the mid-20th century that collectors love (like this one from Universal Geneve). But instead of a chronograph, we’ve got a travel time, arguably more useful for the modern jet-setter.

The entire package looks considered and put together. The blue dial is vibrant, with a variety of finishes so as not to overwhelm your eye.

Of note, the new movement does away with any pushers – previous travel times from Patek (like the 5524) had large pushers, so this makes for a case that looks completely balanced. A real Calatrava, in other words.

Patek says the rose gold numerals and indices are hand-applied, and the numerals and syringe hands are filled with lume. Again, it’s a balance between traditional and sporty, much the same way the new 5224R balances traditional inspiration with a modern complication.

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As soon as I started to look over the images of the new 5204G, I found that its general vibe reminded me of another very Grand Complication from Patek, the 5004. Retired in 2011, while the 5004 was made in several different versions over its 15-year life cycle, Patek commemorated the end of production for these Split-Second QP Chronographs by creating fifty examples in steel with gorgeous creamy dials and black dial furniture (I love when Patek does black markers and hands). As the 5204 came into being a year after the 5004 was retired, maybe the new 5204G is one step closer to seeing some version made in steel. While this 5204G is not specifically limited, it’s worth noting that Patek was only producing around twelve 5004s a year back in 2011. Like its rose gold sibling, 5204G has the sort of price that you write on a piece of paper and slide across a table. I suppose the digital equivalence would be for me to omit the price from this sentence and tell you that I’ve included it at the bottom of the article.
If only I were a rich guy – because holy moly – do I like the 5935A. As an extension of my fascination with travel watches, I love the romance of a world timer, especially those of a Cottier-derived nature (I wrote a bit about it here, and more about it in Watches: A Guide by Hodinkee). I know, I know. It’s only full-hour time zones but the idea of the whole world on your wrist has a very old-world charm to it and the new 5935 only amplifies that charm by mixing a steel case with a stunning dial and a special movement. Let’s start with the movement, as it’s the first time that the CH 28-520 HU has been used in a steel watch. You might remember previous and precious outings for this caliber by way of the blue- or green-accented 5930G, and the CH 28-520 HU is notable for its combination of both a traditional world timer (showing instantaneous time and an indication of day/night in 24 time zones) along with a 30-minute flyback chronograph.

For the 5935A, the combination is so well done, especially in terms of how lightly the chronograph treads on an already complicated dial. The sizing is good, too, with the 5935A measuring 41mm wide and 12.75mm thick while housing an automatic movement with two rather useful complications. Then we get to the dial, which is described by Patek Philippe as rose gilt with a carbon motif and charcoal grey accents. Did I mention that I love when Patek Philippe uses black dial furniture? I did, but feel free to add charcoal to that list – the first-gen 5270, the final 5004, Briggs Cunningham’s frankly jaw-dropping 1526. The mix of the rosey dial, the dark and legible markings, and that carbon-effect center finishing, I just love it.

Interestingly, Patek says that the carbon motif is in reference to the ref. 6007 LE from 2020, but let’s not forget 2017’s 5208T-010 for Only Watch (and yes, I had to google that reference), or the unique 5004T (thank you for that one, Ben). With the 5935A carrying a price tag of $63,870, what can I say? A fella can dream, and hope that my meager GME holdings shoot for one of Jupiter’s moons. I’m afraid our own moon simply won’t cut it anymore.

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